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About Greg Scholl
Expertise
Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects,Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings of all kinds.
Experience
Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Sold, built, serviced, setup Home,Industrial and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools, and offered instruction on use and care as well.I even have some Trade show Demo experience.
Organizations
none at this time.
Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how"), local newspapers as well
Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field.Seminars by Major tool manufacturers, Delta, Powermatic, Performax, Porter Cable, Skil/Bosch to name a few.
Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT.(the Antiques capital of CT.)
Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.), local Museums and Historical Societies.
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You are here: Experts > Hobbies > Woodworking > Woodworking > warping
Expert: Greg Scholl
Date: 4/13/2008
Subject: warping
Question
i have long believed wood (baseboard trim, t/g flooring)warps "to" the moisture. in other words, the edges of the trim or flooring move toward the moisture, thus the wood cups.
if the edges of your flooring boards are higher than the middle,your flooring is getting too much room moisture. if the middle of your flooring boards is higher than the edges, your flooring is getting too much moisture from underneath somehow.
lately, several things have come up that have me scratching my head and wondering if my mind has reversed what i thought i knew and i am believing the exact opposite of what is true. i remember an old demonstration where one sprays a mist on paper and watches the paper curl as an example of wood warping when wet. today we repeated this demo and two separate pieces of paper curled opposite ways?!
on a job, the t/g flooring boards are high on the edges and low in the middle which makes me think that room humidity is affecting the wood since there is felt between the t/g boards and the subfloor. do you think this is the correct assumption or is humidity from below the floor affecting the boards?
thanks for your consideration
rob
Answer
Hey Rob, wood will tend to cup towards the dryer side, because the cells are actually getting smaller as the release moisture. What you're describing sounds like the flooring was not properly dry to be installed, and that it's moisture content wasn't acclimated to the room for several days before installation, which is the recommended way to do this. One always brings the material into the site, stacks it with stickers(small pieces of wood) between the layers, and leaves it for several days to a week before installing it. I'm assuming it's blind nailed and the nails, with the tongue and groove will tend to always stick up a little higher, but usually the floor is sanded before finishing, which will flatten it out. Usually it's the lack of humidity that affects the wood, as the materials shed humidity into the air to equalize with the space their installed in. And the exposed side of the flooring will shed moisture at a much higher rate then the underside. The flooring material needs to be kept in a fairly controlled environment from the time it's kiln dried, milled, and stored, and it rarely is, when it's trucked from here to there, stored in wharehouses, etc. Hope that helps, my guess is that the material was damp upon installation.....best of luck- Greg
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